Saab C900 Fog Lighting Project

Compiled by Craig Dewick

Mid-2004 - Ongoing

Saab 900's, at least those imported in Australia, didn't have any wiring provided for front foglights until 1984. From that year on, front foglights became an official option and wiring kits became available to add the extra circuit to run front foglights.

So it was that in mid-2004, I became interested in fitting front foglights to my 1983 Saab 900S (aka 'The Beast'), and started to investigate options.

After a bit of a search, I discovered that Two-Stroke to Turbo in the UK had a brand-new Saab accessory wiring kit available for fitting foglights to 1984+ Saab 900's. In addition, they also had a few different types of genuine Saab foglight and 'extra' light bracket sets available.

Here are some pics to show the mounting of the foglights:

Initial Choice of Location for the Foglights
Right side close-up - wiring tied to towing pointLeft side close-up - different wire routingFrom underneath - note the right-side bolt securing the bumper
Right side close-upFrom underneath
Right side again, showing other bracketIt looks nice and mean up close!Something to note:
Right side showing bracketsIt looks nice and mean up close!
Note where the right-side bolt securing the bumper is in the picture above. Unfortunately, using tow ropes, etc. is difficult as the foglights get in the way and the wiring is vulnerable. However I feel that the only other under-bumper position outside of the tow points doesn't look right. 8-)

That shows you the general location and position of the foglight assemblies themselves (I haven't really decided if they'll be moved to sit 'outside' of the towing points yet).

April 2006 Update - New pictures (taken in April 2005!) of how I configured the Saab 'extra' and 'foglight' brackets behind the bumper have been downloaded from my digital camera and will be placed online here in the next week or so!

Here are some images showing some aspects of the wiring in and around the fuse/relay panel:

Electrical Circuit and Wiring Modifications
Location of the additional 15 amp blade fuseExtra relay under fuse/relay panel + end of extra wiring loomMain wiring loom after re-encapsulation (with extra wiring inside)
Extra 15 amp fuse locationRe-finished wiring harness
Nitto self-amalgamating butyl rubber tape for encapsulating loom wiringInfo on where to buy and how to use self-amalgamating tape
Nitto self-amalgamating tape<--- This is the stuff of legends. It's a unique type of electrical tape which joins to itself without adhesive. You can usually buy it from Jaycar Electronics (cat # NM-2826) for just over A$20 a roll (as pictured in box).

To use, cut a piece and stretch to just under double it's unstretched length. Carefully position one end at the start of the wiring being covered, and wrap it around the loom overlapping between 1/4 and 1/3 of it's width with each turn. Keep the tape in tension as much as possible to maintain the stretch, and as it's elastic nature tries to make it shrink back to original density, the material will bond with the layer underneath wherever it overlaps! Neat huh!

Another hint when using 'Nitto' brand (or another brand for that matter) of butyl-rubber self-amalgamating tape... To make the resulting new 'sheath' both flexible and robust, cover the inner layer of self-amalgamating tape with an outer layer of regular electrical tape. What I've noticed with the butyl rubber tape is that where it's under quite a lot of stretch loading but not actually sticking to something (say at the end of a run of cabling to re-seal an old sheath where the new tape is stretched out to fill the gap where the wires come out), the butyl tape will come apart and tear due to the tension, so regular electrical tape will give the join some structural hold to complement the butyl tape's self-sealing effect.

I'll try to grab some pics, etc. of the back of the bumper to show where and how I've mounted the brackets.

Thanks for being visitor # to this page!